Greece


I picked one random day and decided to document what happened on the farm so you can all see what life is like as a wwoofer  :-)

Greek Farm, Day 20

6:45  -  Get up, get ready, eat half box of Cheerios
7:30  -  Start weeding garden
7:45  -  Katerina comes to garden screaming
8:00  -  Begin 1st session of the day of the Connect the Actors Game (game has grown increasingly intense as we are running out of combinations)
8:30  -  Weed different part of garden, rejoice in exotic change of location
9:30  -  Go collect old horse fence with Danielle 
10:00  -  Break to go gossip with Hallie
10:15  -  Start cleaning fishing nets, start 1st session of the day of the Spanish Game (which is not really a game, its just trying to chat in Spanish for practice for our Spain farm, where not a whole lot of English is spoken)
10:20  -  Spend 10 minutes trying to remember the Spanish word for “kitchen” 
10:40  -  Quit Spanish Game.  It is too hard.
12:50  -  Break to go gossip with Hallie
1:00  -  Help make lunch/set table
1:20  -  Everyone gathers at table for lunch  (lunch is stuffed peppers and three salads and fresh bread and cheese from the goats next door)
1:21  -  Katerina screaming
1:22  -  Sophia screaming
1:35  -  Dishes
1:38  -  Sophia taunting dog with kittens
1:40  -  Katerina taunting dog with kittens
1:45  -  Wash table
1:46  -  Katerina arrives in kitchen mostly naked and covered in poop (see previous post)
1:47  -  Anika takes Katerina out back to be hosed down
1:55  -  Drying dishes
1:58  -  Sophia attempts to capture Katerina in laundry basket
2:02  -  Sophia goes back to torturing kittens
2:03  -  Dishes done
2:04  -  Take out compost bucket
2:05  -  Siesta time!  Dream of weeding.
5:30  -  Back to work in the garden
7:30  -  Feed horses  (its easy to carry massive hay bales is easy because of our massive pipes)
8:00  -  Done with work, hang out with Hallie and Margaret in Argalasti
11:00  -  Sleep, dream of weeding

We are currently in Volos, killing time until a bus can take us to Ioannina, from which we will go to Igoumenitsa and hop on a 15-hour ferry to Italy.  15 hours of overnight ferrying and I’m STILL excited!  Eeeeee!

Anyhow, lots of business to take care of today, so a quick rundown of final-Greece-stuff:

1) First a shout-out to the Greek people.  Yes, we complain about the fact that the culture here has yet to hear about things like, oh, I don’t know, respectful treatment of women, the impoliteness of staring, etc.  BUT.  The Greeks have been very VERY hospitable, especially to us foreigners.  They try really hard to speak English with us (and usually do it pretty well) and, failing that, to understand us when we are trying to jabber in garbled Greek.  And, even including the strange (Tourette’s-stricken?) woman at the village bakery who just liked to yell at us, they are all quite friendly and not-frustrated while doing it.  Great job, Greece!

2)  I now appreciate showers like I never had before.  I plan on taking one that is an hour long at our motel in Ioannina.  I just may eat and take naps, coffee breaks, etc. during it.

3) The other day (about which I’m pretty sure Molly is also blogging) was pretty much a landmark day in terms of the children.  Even without Yanni (the knife-sharpening minion of Hell), the girls reached new heights of disorder and dysfunctionality.  It was a morning of howling and wailing, complete with Katerina running around completely nudy and crying.  The nudiness just makes it all more pathetic and makes you want to comfort her more — sure, it’s 100 degrees out, but this poor child is sad AND unclothed! — and yet you have no idea how, because who wants to pick up the nudy crying child with lots of snot on her face? Also, it made me want to just shake Sofia, because somehow it seems even meaner to hit your sister when she’s naked.

Anyhow.  Sofia and Katerina spent much of the morning hitting each other, and then much of what would have been a wonderful lunchtime (scrambled eggs, MASHED POTATOES, salad, copious amounts of ketchup*) being homicidal alternately toward each other and — you guessed it — the kittens.  While Hallie, Anika, Molly and I were washing dishes and admirably ignoring the Iwo-Jima-intensity fighting outside, in comes Katerina in the following state:

a) bawling her eyes out

b) wearing undies incorrectly, in a way that can only be described as “sideways,” with the crotch on her hip and…yeah.  It would have been comical, except for…

c) POOP ON HER STOMACH.

And she then screams, “MAMA!  CACA!  MAMA!  CACA!”

Molly looked horrified, nearly dropped her dish, and skittered backwards.  I, stunned, stared in horror as my brain said, “Ok, kid.  At least tell me that’s not YOUR poop.”  And then, “Wait.  Tell me it’s not your sister’s, either.”

As it turns out, she squeezed a kitten a little too hard and it defecated all over her.  Anika took her outside to hose her off (I am not making any of this up).  We all died a little from an intense mixture of horror and comedy.  Which was intensified when the new WWOOFer, Margaret, showed up yesterday.  Before she had yet met the children, I told her this story and we had the following exchange:

HER: Wait.  How OLD is Katerina?

ME: <deadpan> Fifteen.

HER: <horrified silence>

Anyhow.  The children were actually mostly good this past week, despite this incident, and they colored with us a lot.  It is very possible that I enjoyed it even more than they did.  Coloring is even more fun than I remember it being.  Perhaps my brain has turned to mush.

4) We learned last night from Margaret that Nikos has MADE A CD OF HIM PLAYING THE BOUZOUKI AND SINGING.  Nikos plays the bouzouki all day, all night, rain, shine, and of course even if we are sleeping, and especially even if Anika tells him to stop, and especially especially if there is pressing work to do.  Anyhow, we were sad, because this is a GOLD MINE of information, and we only found out last night.  <sigh>  Ah, well.

Well, that’s it for now.  We head to Italy soon!  SO EXCITED!

Thanks for commenting, friends and family et al.  I am happy that all this writing and story-recounting is not all for naught. :)

Danielle

*Regarding ketchup: a shout-out to Margaret for reenacting the Prairie Home Companion ketchup commercials with me last night.  Made my week and made me miss the Midwest.  Also gave me an opportunity to whip out my “Midwestern middle-aged woman voice.”

Hello all,

Danielle has covered everything very well!! Quite an exciting couple of days on the farm this week…the two most common words used have been “Kaput” and “Catastrophe”. I have become The Girl Who Gets Zapped By The Electric Fence and also Tan Girl, both titles I never expected to have in life. I am very much enjoying our days off in Volos when I spent shocking amounts of money on candy and Diet Coke, both of which are just soooo goooooood in Europe!

Today we went to the Archeology Museum in Volos which has a collection of hair clippies from 10th Century BC!!!

We are very excited about Italy and not having to build horses fences in Italy. Since there are no horses on the Italy farm, we ask ourselves, “what work could there possibly be to do?!”

It has been an eventful past-few-days at the farm.

First things first: the generator broke. Which is bad. Allow me to clarify — in an earlier post I had said it was solar-powered, which is wrong. Our situation is that the (diesel-powered) generator, which we run for about 3 hours a day, allows anything plugged-in to work, and (more importantly) pumps up water so we can shower and wash dishes (our drinking water we get from a spring nearby, which is kind of cool). The solar panel just heats shower-water and gives us electric lights.

So the generator broke, and apparently it is a month-old beast of a machine that was bought at great cost in Athens (a 5-hour drive away, plus two more hours for the monumental Athens traffic) specifically to be “reliable” and thus avoid situations such as this.

Anyhow. It was discovered that it was broken just before lunch the other day. Anika pointed out that this meant no garden-watering (and hence the ruin of LOTS of produce), no showers, and potentially spending lots of money. Then she started crying. Sofia was mute. The WWOOFers looked at each other and wondered (a) do we comfort her? (b) if so, how? (c) how long will they keep us around? (d) how long can we stand each others’ smell? Nikos fumed silently. Caterina, oblivious, continued with her lunchtime kitten-maiming. Demon-child Yanni inexplicably pulled out his pocketknife and started sharpening it. And the sheer discomfort of the situation, combined with Yanni’s weaponry, caused me to start giggling, which is HORRIBLE, but I was just so uncomfortable I didn’t know what to do. Reflex. Ugh.

Anyhow, that night, Nikos stayed up late to fiddle with the old generator, and we sat and watched him, beers in hand, offering occasional encouragement (“Looks good, Nikos.” “Yup.”). And all is well that ends well, because late the next day, Nikos got the old one to WORK! SHOWERS! GARDEN-WATERING! There was much rejoicing, and Nikos became instantly cool. Or at least passable.

Allow me also to interject here about the enormity of the garden-watering task on our farm. I remember when I was little, asking Mom (in fact, BEGGING) to let me water the garden. This was a task that was very easy to screw up, in the sense that, in my 5-year-old zeal, I would water it for hours on end and drown everything. No such risk here. It requires over an hour of water, twice a day, from a very fat hose. As we learned this last week, a day and a half without watering = massive death among the cucumbers and zucchinis. Once again, this garden is truly kind of amazing. So much food in it. And apparently, someone has been sneaking in at night and stealing artichokes and cucumbers — at last count, around 15 artichokes have gone missing, and 3 cucumbers. And they are neatly cut — it’s not a badger/fox/lizard/whatever that’s doing it. Hence we blame some unruly neighbor.

On that note, in a roundabout way, the other big recent event was that the horses got out. Actually, they got out 3 times. In three days. This is upsetting on so many levels:

1) Building horse fences is time-consuming.

2) Dealing w/ them involves the risk of electric shock.

3) There are 44 horses.

4) It has been HOT.

5) We put in roughly 2-3 hours of work on one fence, only for the horses to get out, in some cases, 8 hours later.

So there has been a lot of running around, wringing of hands, wailing, moaning, and general gnashing of teeth at these impossible animals. Even (especially, rather) on Anika and Nikos’ part. These horses are some sort of protected species here in Greece, so the fam gets a stipend to raise them until the end of 2009. At which point, as Anika put it, “You want a horse to bring back to America? If not, we go to butcher!”

But it hasn’t been poor-fence-building or incompetent WWOOFers as the culprit; at least, not every time. As it turns out, the fence has been disconnected from the power source on a couple of occasions — something horses probably can’t do. Even protected species. And Anika and Nikos have had some recent disagreements over grazing land w/ a particularly nastly old coot of a neighbor, so he is our current suspect #1. Grrrrrrrrr……….

Anyhow, as we want to be sure that the horses “respect” the electricity at any cost (just in case they do get out of their own volition sometimes), we had a fun activity last night in which we penned them all up by the stable, then took a long piece of the electrified fence-tape and ran around and zapped the horses. It was cathartic. PETA would hate us. It also hopefully did some good. And just in case you think us cruel, keep in mind that Molly and I arguably got shocked more often than the horses.

Anyhow, it is another beautiful day (day OFF!) in Volos. We have discovered a truly life-changing candy store, amazing pizza, etc. And on a personal, shallow note, today I decided that I finally have enough hair to warrant purchasing a brush. Clearly, life is good. :)

Leaving for Italy in five days! This (I mean it this time) is probably the last post until then. Assuming we learn how to read the bus schedule, we should get there safely and soundly on Saturday evening.

About a week ago, I was hit by the sore throat from Hell. Not a cold, not a flu, just an inability to swallow without wanting to punch a wall and cry.

And so, after a lot of hesitation, I went to the Argalasti Medical Center. Why hesitation, you ask? Because my low-income (Ok, no income at the moment) American brain went, “EEEEEE! Too expensive! Do not spend $1000 at the doctor for a freaking sore throat, you weenie!”

But when it was all too much and meals were becoming a chore (and it is a firm principle in my brain that eating should never, NEVER be anything but awesome), I said “uncle” and meekly croaked to Anika, “How much does a doctor cost around here?”

Baffled, she answered, “It is free!”

Of course! Because they are SANE here!

So I went to the doctor for free. And this medical center — in a town of 2600, I might add — is open 24 HOURS A DAY and, according to Anika, “can do everything except for babies” (Delivering them, that is).

Pardon me for a huge foreigner moment (and also a huge liberal moment) but THAT IS SO FREAKING COOL! THAT IS SO COOL! Now, granted, the doctor looked at my throat and examined me and determined, “Nothing is wrong!”, in response to which I yowled in pain…but upon going back a second time (because it is FREE HEALTH CARE! FREE! HEALTH! CARE!), the other doctor determined that what she meant was, “You have a virus. You are screwed. Sorry, lady. Bed rest and juice.” Well, I like bed rest and juice. Plus, I have an even bigger excuse to eat lots and lots of my newest major diet staple — honey. Like, made-by-the-neighbors’-bees honey. DEEEEELICIOUS. I will try to smuggle some home. Booyah!

Furthermore, the lovely doctors helped Anika with a rather unique problem earlier this week. She comes in from work saying, “I have an animal in my ear!”

Hallie, Molly, and I look at each other, bewildered.

“I can feel it moving around! Like deep in my ear, by my brain!”

Um…OK…

But eventually we figured out that she wasn’t having an episode, but rather meant that her ear contained an insect or spider of some sort. And upon going in and explaining to the doctor, they had it out in 5 minutes. ANOTHER TRIUMPH OF SOCIALIZED MEDICINE!

Anyhow, that is most of what I have to say for the day. Parental and family figures, don’t worry…the throat problem is nearly over. Mostly. We’ll see. Down on the dirty, germy ol’ farm, things seem to take 3 times as long to heal. Molly and I are discovering this with our numerous farm cuts and contusions. Yeah, we’re like twice as tough as we used to be. We also have these huge deltoids. With barbed wire tattoos. And we chew tobacco. And spit and cuss.

Also, on a “pop-culture-starved” note, Hallie’s mom sent her an Entertainment Weekly last week. Molly’s mom sent a People Magazine this week. Do they lack substance and importance? They do. Did we pounce upon them and devour every last page, including Entertainment Weekly’s ENTIRE, SIXTY-PAGE “Sex and the City” overkill love-fest? We did. Do I even like “Sex and the City”? Errrrrrrgh.

Oh. And Sofia and Yanni made up an obscene gesture this week that appears to be for use ONLY AT ME. Like Molly said — EVIL CHILDREN.

So, yes. Short post, since it has only been a short while since my last post. Anyone expecting e-mails from me-slash-us, we might not have internet access (i.e., we might not come into the big city) for at least a week after today. Just FYI.

One week until Italy travel begins! I am SO EXCITED!

Hi everybody! We are in Volos on our weekly email trip and I will take a few minutes here to tell you all about our first wwooffing location.

Our farm is located on the Pelion Penisula, about a day’s journey from Athens by train. The peninsula is a sleepy little 30 mile stretch of rocky hills, olive trees, and white washed villages which seem to have way more buildings than appropriate for the number of people you see in them. People here farm and fish (and cater to long term tourists) for a living and seem to enjoy the quiet life Our hosts, for example, claim they haven’t been to Athens in 10 years and the last movie they saw in the theater was The Horse Whisperer.

We are about halfway through our stretch here at our Greek farm and we have settled into a routine of work sleep work that makes the time go pretty fast. We do thing like make horse fences the size of football fields in pastures with grass as high as your ears or shovels horse manure for the garden or haul hay. Let me just say here that hay is HEAVY. Its like lead. And it bites, like every other plant in Greece. A lot of time is spent in the garden, which is such a historic mess that it takes an hour of heavy industrial weeding to make a square foot patch of usable dirt. Its kind of like attempting to rip out all the grass from my backyard in Buffalo Center but keep the dandelions. But the garden improves quickly with the four of us (Dani, Molly, Halli – other woofer, whom we love, and Anika) working on it so hard. So far work isn’t that bad, although it is actually pretty hard some days. Im happy Im learning all this wierd new stuff, like how it feels to be stung by an electric fence and how to clean a fish.

A lot of time is spent preparing, eating and cleaning up after lunch. Anika is a phenomenal cook and makes things like stuffed peppers, mashed potatoes, vegetable stew, cheese tortellini, etc. every day. Even better, she is a closet vegetarian and says she doesnt mind at all that Hallie and I are veggies. I eat myself silly every day and then need a nap to recover. :-)

When we are not working or sleeping, we come in contact with the majority of animals on the farm, which include dogs, kittens, and children aged 3 to 9. The dogs do nothing but sun themselves, and the kittens are impossibly adorable. The cutest one I have named Peanut and have basically claimed her for life. Another we named Tula after My Big Fat Greek Wedding and another is named Danger because it seems to be the children’s favorite. The two older kids, for whatever reason, seem to have a mean streak that encourages them to abuse anything small and cute (like kittens). And their younger sister, unfortunately, is both small and cute. SO often around here we have the evil laughter of Sophie and Yani and then an afternoon of wailing from little Katerina, the three year old that speaks two more languages than me.

For future reference, to clean a fish, first break the head off and then rip it open, using an upward motion of the thumb to clean out the guts.

Love,
Molly

Once again, we are in scenic Volos, the big city to which we come once a week for all our internet needs. It’s like heroin. Seriously. (Not that we’d know, dear readers, but just roll with it.) We leave the cafe each week all blissed out, knowing that the USA is still running relatively smoothly and that our e-mail accounts, bank accounts, etc. still exist.

The past week has been eventful…the high point for me was leading a horse tour a couple of days ago with our co-woofer, Hallie.

(As an aside, we very much appreciate that Hallie is a GREAT co-woofer…she works her share, is tidy, friendly, etc. …we had feared being stuck with a sociopath or a severe hippie who refuses to flush the toilet or something.) (Hallie, if you’re reading this, props to you!)

Anyhow. Two young women from Austria wanted a 2-hour horse tour of the Pelion area, so Hallie and I were elected to do the tour. It was a sort of trial by fire, as these two women are some sort of equestrian queens back in Austria. Hence, they got the two fastest horses in Nikos’ herd…and possibly on the planet. Nikos gave Hallie and me a couple of “calm” horses, and the description was apt for Kito, Hallie’s horse, which was the SLOWEST horse on the planet, and which also stopped to eat every 20 seconds. I had Paco, who wanted so badly to hang with the cool horses and imitate them. So when the Austrian girls would say, “OK, we gallop now!” Hallie would get off Kito and walk it, and I would clutch my reins for dear life as Paco attempted to keep up with the Austrians, and whinnied angrily at the fact that I value my life and thus held him back. But it was still an awesome ride, and I was glowing all day purely from the fact that I survived and didn’t make an ass of myself.

The chores have been much the same — lots of gardening, lots of taking down and putting up horse fences as we move their pasture every few days. The gardening is fun because we eat from the garden every day, so there is lots of gratification from that task. We always have some sort of salad, made from onions and olives and cucumbers and tomatoes, most of which are grown by Anika. I did learn, however rudimentarily, how to drive a stick-shift this past week from Nikos (one of our two hosts — husband to Anika, she of the amazing cooking) as we herded the horses. This upped his coolness quotient astronomically in my head, as did the fact that he does the cool trick of fashioning a bridle out of a piece of rope and riding a horse bareback to do the herding.

We have found that there are two Nikoses: Work Nikos and Lunch Nikos. Work Nikos buckles down and teaches you how to drive stick and helps build fences. Lunch Nikos pesters you daily about whether or not you have a boyfriend, and if so, how many. But it’s a trick question, because NO MATTER WHAT YOU ANSWER, IT IS UNFAILINGLY HILARIOUS TO HIM. “None”? HAHAHAHAHA! “One”? HAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAA! “Two”? YOU AMERICAN GIRLS JUST SLAY ME!

He also tells inappropriate stories about his past love life, because his favorite hobby is telling you about how Greek men are the best lovers in the world. But he has taught us also that the phrase “But what can I say? I am a Greek man!” can absolve you of ANY wrongdoing or personality flaws, however glaring.

“Dude, why did you steal candy from that baby?”

“Meh. I am a Greek man!”

“Oh, I gotcha. And why did you rob the liquor store?”

“I am a Greek man!”

“Good point! But why did you punch that little old lady in the face?”

“What can I say? I am a Greek man!”

“You, sir, are a rhetorical genius.”

Hallie and Molly and I have endless fun with Nikos stories. The children — Yanni, Sofia, and Caterina — are officially out from school for the summer, which may make the upcoming weeks…interesting. They are very good at fighting and creating discord. Sofia, for example, throws the kittens at the (giant, remember) dogs to piss them off. Yanni throws away Sofia and Caterina’s toys and clothes to piss them off. Caterina pinches me to piss me off. I, in turn, maturely ignore the stupidity and instead inwardly seethe and plot the children’s slow and painful demises. Ah, the circle of life.

But whenever discord strikes the farm, we have KITTENS TO PLAY WITH! KITTENS! Kittens have become our TV. We each have one we “root for” …mine is Thano, named after a lovely rugger from my college days…and so named purely because Thano was the only Greek person I had ever known before coming here (Thano! You are still probably the coolest Greek I know! Props!). As we eat our meals (which we do on the porch every day…which is a lovely way to eat, with the ocean-mountains-island view and fresh air), we watch the kittens play and make up elaborate stories about Thano and Peanut and Tula and their exploits.

Speaking of meals, people have asked what we eat, and — aside from the salads from the garden — we have lots of feta cheese and tzatziki at every meal, as well as fresh bread. As for main courses, Anika has made us such fare as stuffed peppers, tortellini (with this amazing cream-vegetable sauce), Greek tomato-rice stuff (delicious, despite having no real name), and so on. Also, the milk is 3.5%, meaning that even breakfast cereal is way way more delicious than in America.

Randomly — and I am not joking — I seem to no longer be lactose intolerant. Don’t ask; I don’t get it either.

OK! Molly has put up pics, and this is way long. Signing off until next week,

Danielle

The title sounds all Debbie-Downer, I know. But Greece is really lovely. First, the place we’re staying — the home of Anika and Nikos and their three adorable children — is up in the hills, providing us with this AMAZING view of the ocean and surrounding hills. The town of Argalasti is very quaint, and we recognized the town square — with all its plaid tablecloths and surrounding kiosks, stores, etc. — from the Wikipedia picture. As in, we went into the square and started pointing and saying in our high-pitched American “excited” voices, “Look! Wikipedia picture!”

The locals stared. Because this is what they do, this being a small town. We are new, clearly not from around here, and we are also women. Thus, stares.

If one weren’t to know any better, one would think Argalasti was all men — the public areas are all covered with them; as for the women, I don’t know where they are. Minding their own business indoors somewhere, I suppose. There is a swagger to Greek men that wasn’t present in the Minneapolis hipster set, last time I checked. They are very open about staring and saying what we would consider to be (mildly) inappropriate things in the ol’ Midwest. I have, however, perfected my icy “bite me” glare, though somehow I think this might provoke things. Not sure.

Anyhow. Every town and city has a large population of stray dogs…which are invariably LARGE and which invariably bark at the slightest provocation…but they are actually quite docile — no biting or even chasing. They lift their heads, bark (or ROAR, depending), then say, “Ah, to hell with you,” and go back to sunbathing.

Back to the farm, though — there is a solar-powered generator, as well as water that is solar-heated…so showers are best taken in the evening, once the water is warmed up. We also use little electricity…most is used at the end of the day for bedtime reading, which is short anyway, because by the end of the day we are (or, perhaps I should just speak for myself…so I am) pooped. Exhausted.

The day’s schedule is different from that of the Iowa farm:

8:00 a.m.-1:00 p.m., maybe 2: Work

Until 3:00 or 4:00: Lunch and cleaning up from lunch …and let me add here that lunch is the biggest meal of the day. It’s big and heavy and DELICIOUS (Anika is a phenomenal cook) and is accompanied by wine. Thus it is sleep-inducing. Which is OK, because…

Until 5:00: naptime! Or free time, but sleeping is GREAT after a morning of work. If one chooses not to sleep, one can always watch Caterina, Nikos and Anika’s 3-year-old, as she manhandles the kittens. She picks one up by the scruff of the neck and screams, “BABY! BABYYYY!” and swings it around while the kitty looks like it wants to just vomit and die. As there are 10 kittens, they each either get their turn or get used to hiding. I think one or two poor kitties bear much of the brunt of the wrath of Caterina.

Then from 5 until 7ish or later, we work more.

Day ends, small supper, fall asleep immediately.

I can see how a person could fall into a rhythm with this schedule. It’s kind of nice, though Anika (being a good German) can work for 16 hours straight, no rests. The woman apparently also worked through most of her pregnancies. She has every ounce of my respect.

The work consists of putting up and taking down fences in the horse pasture (we move the pasture every few days), moving hay bales (much larger and heavier than I recall the Iowa ones being), weeding the garden, picking vegetables, etc. In other words, horses and gardening. Yesterday Molly and I gloriously fused the two with the hauling of many wheelbarrows of horse manure to the garden. It was magical.

I have gone running some up in the hills, and it is far more taxing than the hills of Iowa or Minneapolis. By which I mean that we actually have hills here. I get a few scratches from the brambly bushes on the roadside, because — per my title — the indigenous plant life out here hates people. Every plant has stickers or burrs or thorns or other weapons with which to scrape at the unsuspecting person’s skin.

OK. I could write for hours, but this has gone on long enough. It’s lovely here and, in case you are wondering, I/we will be checking e-mail about once a week while in Greece. Chances are that I miss you.

D

We probably won’t be doing the daily-post thing, considering the apparent remoteness and un-wired-ness of our first farm…so this may be the last one for a few days, a week, etc.  Anyhow, will keep it short.  In case you are a concerned family member or friend or whathaveyou, Molly and I arrived happily in Athens, with no major travel hiccups.  I mean, OK, there was some eye-rolling and hand-wringing and a low-level marital spat regarding the train from the airport to the hostel.  Fortunately, after leaving the train station in a huff at the sheer inefficiency of the Greek public transit system (because clearly we weren’t to blame for being unable to read the train schedule) (Actually, we really weren’t…it’s in GREEK.  Which is relatively easily pronounce-able, it’s true, but still.  Greek.)

…um…anyway…after leaving the (wrong) train station in a huff, we found the coolest taxi driver ever.  This woman (whose other passenger, riding shotgun, seemed to be her BFF) negotiated the 10-foot-wide Athens streets (i’m not exaggerating here) and ungodly traffic and the other suicidal taxi drivers with the kind of sharpness and precision usually reserved for the Bourne movies.  She even swore in Greek at a couple of tools in a VW.  Or, at least, I assume it was swearing.  Couldn’t have been much else.  All while jabbering w/ her buddy as they traded sunglasses, giggled about God-knows-what, etc.  And she didn’t rip us off at all…which (according to our travel guidebooks) is nothing to sniff at in Athens.

Neither of us slept on our flights, and I don’t think either of us ate much.  So we had a sort of punch-drunk and grumpy tromp around the city tonight looking for the Acropolis (really big and on a hill, but still a needle in a haystack here), but then we had delicious food and we actually did find the Acropolis (hint: it’s really big and on a hill), as well as dozens of stray dogs.  They’re everywhere.  They’re in the trees.  They’re in the hostel.  I have ten of them.  In my bunk.  We name them tonight.

Seriously, I’m not doing it justice, but Athens is a fabulous city.  I’m sure Molly will post her pics soon.